Update # 5.

My last update was way back on August 11th, (damn this year has gone quickly), and with the words, 'my next update will be from Leyburn Sprints'. Unfortunately my Leyburn Sprints adventure was cancelled due to the weather, it went ahead without the Bearcat. But, since then the Bearcat has attended many cars shows getting lots of attention. 

This video thanks to 'Dadz Garage' ( https://www.youtube.com/@DADZGARAGE ) at the Cafe` Elle's Sunday meet. The Bearcat's first public video appearance. 

                        Here he is again idling up to temp for my quick get away from Cafe` Elle.

                                     Thanks to to Mike at Black Top Photography for the video.                                                                                          https://www.facebook.com/blacktop68

My numerous trips have helped me get used to his idiosyncrasies and handling. After I had the king pin bushes replaced and adjusted the steering box sector shaft he handles a LOT better. I have extended the distance driven pretty well each car show. My latest was around 100 ks, a lot of it highway driving. He easily skips along at 100 ks on the freeway, and I was pleasantly surprised by getting 12 - 13 miles per gallon, (about 22 lt / 100 k). When this engine was in the 1961 GMC 7000 Series truck it only got 3 miles/gal. (about 94 lt / 100 k)!

The only modification I've made to him so far is the addition of an Expansion Tank on the radiator. The original set up had the overflow tube ending just above the front axel, and quite often spat coolant on the ground when I pulled up at a show, usually from sitting in traffic. This obviously upset the youngn's as they often pointed out, in a concerned voice, 'you're losing coolant mate'. To which I explained. 'this is what old cars did'. So to allay their fears I installed a expansion tank to stop the Bearcat marking his territory ;-)

Future planned upgrades are getting the seats reupholstered in leather and relocating the spare wheel. The current vinyl on the seats has seen better days, and with the increased use is deteriorating pretty quickly. While the spare wheel position looks good it has to be unbolted and folded out to access the storage area, it's a struggle. When on the ground wheel is too heavy for me to lift onto it's hold down bolts; about a meter up. If I did have a flat tyre while by myself I would have the leave it by the side of the road or get a helper. 

The leather has been ordered and the upholsterer booked. The spare wheel relocation can wait a while, there is a fair bit of work in that. I can see why old Nev Morris put it where it is. Oh, and relocating it will give me space to put a trunk on the rear deck, storage space is at a premium at present. 

Maurice, (the Bearcat's nic name), has recently got new spark plugs and ignition coils, with new plug leads, dizzy caps, rotors, points and condensers being fitted soon. He's already running better just with the new plugs and coils.

We are off to Harrigan's Annual Car Show on Sunday, at Jacobs Well, (between Brisbane and the Gold Coast). This will be the Bearcat's longest drive, about 120 k. Hopefully the weather holds. https://www.harrigansrodandcustomshow.com/

Well that's about all the news, catch ya next time.

 Update # 4

My apologies for the delay in the Updates, I've been more doing than having time to write about it ;-) The reason for the hurry along was I was invited to be one of the feature cars at the Jumpers & Jazz in July Festival. That meant every weekend and other non-work time was spent getting him ready for the 20th of July. There was much hand wringing and gnashing of teeth in fear it wasn't going to be finished, let alone registered. Would it pass the the RWC (Road Worthy Certificate), inspection??? 

So this update takes in quite a bit of problem solving and prepping for the Warwick run, and now the Leyburn Sprints run, (the Leyburn organisers saw the Bearcat at Warwick and asked me to be one of the feature vehicles at their turn-out this coming weekend - 17th & 18th August). So, what was done since the last Update on April 16th.  It's a long one, so grab your favourite beverage and let's get into it.

After the electricals were sorted out I started on rebuilding the brakes, having never worked on truck brakes, (floating axels) before there was much consulting with Dr Google. Through the Toyota Dyna Face Book group I started corresponding with a gentleman who was an expert on Dyna trucks and very generous with his time and knowledge. I can't thank him enough for his guidance and advice - Thanks Michael, I owe you brother. 

During my first under-car inspection after purchasing the Bearcat I noted diff oil dripping off the left hand rear brake backing plate, so started dismantling that one first. The brake shoes and components were soaked in oil and had to be replaced. I checked the other three wheels and although no oil contamination, decided to replace all of the brake shoes. Even though the front ones were passable I thought I'd start afresh. As mentioned previously, my experience with floating axel brakes was nil so it was a steep learning curve. I wanted to know why there was diff oil on the shoes - how did it get that far? After discussions with the Dyna Guru I noted that the outer axel seals were missing on BOTH rear wheels ??? After more investigation and literature searches I found they had been left out. The diff centre had been replaced with one from an Albion truck with a higher ratio - 1.98:1. I had no idea - looking at it from outside it looked totally original. The Albion axel splines are a larger diameter than the original Toyota axels so the OEM seals couldn't be used, and had been left out.

Brake shoes drenched in differential oil

                                                  

Total brake rebuild.

                              

Sourcing brakes shoes and brake cylinders & seals was a treasure hunt. I learnt that in the truck industry once a truck gets to a certain age they are just scrapped, and parts are a problem to find. I did finally manage to get a full set of front and rear brake shoes, some seals, and some complete cylinders to replace the ones beyond repair.

The left rear brake assembly rebuilt. Note the missing seal at the axel opening. 

                   

Then there was the missing seal problem to be solved. This one caused me some sleepless nights I have to say, but the answer was staring me right in the face the whole time; albeit at a right angle. Because the axel spline was a larger diameter than the axel diameter a normal seal cannot be fitted. I even investigated split seals but could not find any the right size. Then it came to me at my usual 3am waking time... treat it like a steam valve spindle! HA OF COURSE!!! I turned up a packing ring to fit inside the axel tube to give the packing some extra reinforcement, then purchased some 10 mm PTFE valve spindle packing. The added extra with PTFE is that it's self lubricating and handles high temperatures with ease.  

Imagine the 'Valve Stem' is the axel, and the 'Packing Flange' the axel cap.

The axel was turned smooth at the axel cap end to give the packing a smooth surface to seal on. The PTFE packed out past the tube end to give the axel cap bulk in order to squeeze the packing tight against the axel surface.

                 

Here is the packing prior to being cut to length and compressed by the axel cap.

The next things to do were mainly cosmetic and on the periphery, but still had to be done before the road worthy inspection. I had always liked the cord-bound steering wheels I'd seen on old WW1 aircraft and race cars of that era so set about copying them. After calculating how much 3mm cotton twine would be require to wrap the steering wheel, the 50m of twine was soaked in water and then began the laborious task of rolling it around each steering wheel segment. But it was worth it, it turned out well, and I'm very happy with the results. I was given a tip by a neighbour who had done it before - super glue the tie-off ends and the cross-overs to keep them in place, Great tip, worked a treat.

Before wrapping the steering wheel 

                                                 

After wrapping. 

                                                                  

I added a spare fuel can that I had lying around the shed, I figured it would get me to the next fuel stop if I really need it it, (10lt), and it looked pretty cool - then realised the exhaust pipe running directly behind it should be insulated!  

                                                                                 

The RWC inspection went well, the research into what the Main Roads Dept wanted paid off and the Engineer passed it. Getting it registered at the Main Roads Dept was an exercise, but with the most helpful of staff we managed it. Then the insurance, with a some extra terms and conditions it was done!

Patting myself on the back for being nearly ready for the Jumper & Jazz Car Show I took the Bearcat to get a wheel alignment. On the way there was about 10 k of freeway driving. I was a little nervous as I had not had it out of 3rd gear since getting it on the road and didn't want to hold up traffic. I shouldn't have been concerned, changing it into 4th gear it cruised at 100 k (60 mph), at 1000 rpm, and handled pretty well on the road. When I arrived at the the wheel alignment workshop I let it run while I got out,  normally something I don't do. It was then I noticed the rumbling water pump bearing - BUGGER !!! I removed the pump as soon as I got home only to find it had suffered some serious damage and repairs in the past. I can only surmise it had been involved in an accident to cause that type of damage. I decided the pump body would not survive in the press to push out the old bearing etc, and pressing in a replacement, so purchased a rebuilt unit out of Oregon USA. I was now sweating on it arriving before I left for Warwick, and it did, arriving on the Tuesday of that week. BUT! The impellors were very different (see photo). I decided to go ahead and fit the rebuilt unit. I had also ordered at the same time a GMC engine workshop manual, which explained that the shorter, opposite rake pump blades were from an earlier model. 

Repaired original pump body.

                                                        

Original repaired impellor.

                                                     

Different impellor blade arrangement

         So all of this lead to this....                                     

      The GMC Bearcat in the main street of Warwick Q'LD for the Jumpers & Jazz Festival Car Show.

The next Update will be from the Leyburn Sprints. 

 

 The work progresses slowly Update #3

I have been busy with tidying up the electrical system, installing a new turn signal switch and a hazard light circuit. Unfortunately this work doesn't make for good progress photos, but I felt I had to post something. ;-)  As automotive electrics is not my strong point there was a bit of two steps forward, one step back, but thanks to You Tube and my stubbornness we got their in the end. The original builder did not follow colour coding well so there was quite a bit of tracing circuits with a test light, then tagging them. 

 During the electrical work.

When completed and tidied up.

The new relays for the turn signals, hazard lights and horn needed a housing of some type to keep them tidy and weather proof, I found an old 'Startix' unit in my 1932 Humber stuff which I gutted and repurposed. I figured it look period and aged enough. (NB. I had no idea was a Startix system was until I found the control box and did some research. The Lucas-Startix system started the engine as soon as the ignition switch was turned on and restarted it automatically if it stalled). 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Startix  These systems were used in a lot of 1930's vehicles from the UK and USA, pretty clever for the time.

The replacement for the compressed air horns. 

The photo above is of the new electric horns I used to replace the air horns which the original builder went to a LOT of work to set up, (sorry Nev). But the air compressor was in the way of the new storage space and I was a little nervous about the air receiver mounted under the seats running at 100 psi. I had picked up the 12 volt truck horns about 15 years ago at the Toowoomba Swap Meet. (I knew they'd come in handy someday. How many car guys can related to that).

One of issues I had was that the instruments were not back lit, so if or when I do drive at night I won't be able to read them, the three most important ones; RPM, Oil pressure and Temp. This caused me concern as a few years ago I had a 1951 Studebaker Commander where the Strontium painted 'glow-in-the-dark' gauges had lost their ability to glow for more than a few minutes. Not being able to see the oil pressure and temperature gauges was very disconcerting. OK how do I get around this? I came across a video of a 1930 Packard which had a retractable map light, this seemed the answer but when I mocked it up it had to extend out of the dash by 150 mm (6") to light up all of the gauges without shadow, this was too far, it wasn't sturdy and looked ridiculous. My son came up with the answer, light them up externally. The light would have to be focused, not be in the way of normal operation, or look weird. What I came up with was a cannibalised flexible neck off a bedside lamp and a torch lenes. I mocked this up and it seemed exactly what I was looking for, and didn't look weird, well not too weird. 

The lamp in the stowed position. 

In the operating position.

Well that's about all there is for this Update. My next few jobs are mechanical, sorting out the why the foot brakes don't work, (I suspect the master cylinder has failed and requires an overhaul). Flush out all the brakes lines and adjust the brakes. Installing seat belts and reassembly. Then the challenge of getting it registered for road use. 

 

Now the work begins. Update #2

Now with Maurice tucked up in my workshop I started to evaluate what needed to be done to get it road worthy. There were many head scratching moments of what to do and even where to begin. So, I thought I’ll just start at one end, and as the rear is the one I encounter when I walk into the shed, the rear it was to be.

There was no provision for a boot / trunk to carry any tools, jack or wheel spanner so that had to be rectified. I cut timber pieces to fit in between the chassis rails, and cut openings into a large piece of 1/4" steel plate fitted to anchor the spare wheel. Unfortunately I didn't get a photo of the area before I modified it. So you just have to imagine looking through to the workshop floor instead of the boot / trunk floor. 

Then to install stop lights, tail lights and indicators / turn signals. There was one large stop/tail light fitted, but it was not in the centre or wired up. This was removed and some 1932 Ford replica tail/stop lights I had were used, and two motorcycle indicators. 

I did deviate from my plan from starting at the rear of the vehicle - once. I notice that the radiator cap was the old 'dog bone' style but needed something. As I'm selling my Humber Speedster project I

re-purposed the radiator emblem I had used on that. It was an emblem my father had kept from a

car he had to sell, before I was born, I found it in a box of his personal stuff after he passed away. I'm sure he would be OK with using it, and it just set off the existing cap on Maurice for the better.

I had already replaced both electric fuel pumps. If you listen to the guy starting the car in the video from at the auction you will hear him say the drum of fuel he lifts up is because there is a serious fuel leak. When I started looking into it I noted the leak was from one of the existing electric fuel pumps, which I replaced. When I fitted the new pumps one of them started making a terrible noise, we found that one of carb float valves has stuck in the closed position making the pump work it's ring out pumping against a closed head. This is what probably destroyed the old pump. I've bought two new carb rebuild kits to sort this out.  

The next job I jumped into was to fitting a temperature gauge and a speedo, neither of which had been installed originally. Because of several issues I went with a GPS speedo, which of course wouldn't fit on the dashboard along with the new temp gauge. Please bear in mind I have been trying to make these new modifications look period. I know the car has been hand built out of parts from the 1960's vehicles but its overall look is from the 1920's. So I ended up making a steering column mount for the speedo and indicator switch and dash lamps. The temp gauge was fitted below the existing Tacho and oil pressure gauge. 

 

Maurice Joins the Family, all 702 cubic inch of him! Update #1

 

Welcome to the 2024 Update / Launch of my neglected blog. On the car front nothing much happened between 2015 and November 2023. The poor old Humber didn’t get any love, (which is now up for sale), just became an ever growing pile of stuff, blankets, rolls of carpet etc, etc. The 1947 Studebaker pick up got an engine freshen up, some head work, new gaskets and a new carb. It’s currently laid up getting a front end rebuild.

But the big news is the addition of Maurice to the stable. (We name our cars based on the name of the previous owner, he didn't look like a Nev, so it would be Morris, but with the monocle windscreen making him look distinguished so we decided on Maurice). I was always fascinated by the 1920’s and ‘30’s aero engine cars and knew the possibility of one being available in Australia was pretty remote. Thus, I started to build the Humber Speedster back in 2013. THEN in November last year I heard of a deceased estate sale happening in Dalby, about 2.5 hrs drive west of Brisbane. I saw some photos of what was for sale and WoW, some large engine cars, I had to go!

A gentleman, by the name of Neville (Nev) Morris had passed and his substantial collection of machinery was being auctioned off. Of particular interest to me were two large engine cars, hand built by Nev. To better explain who Nev was, below is a link to a hot rod magazine article from March 2013.

https://www.streetmachine.com.au/features/neville-morris-custom-creations?fbclid=IwAR0dtaPLcKaZuhCvExYdvmT-THK6GvhQ_kKn_ZbkLp6xGNwAGlB19cVEK7U

I was initially interested in the black car called, ‘SOG’ (Shades of Grey), but a local museum was buying a selection of Nev’s vehicles and inventions to honour him with a permanent display, also I fell in love with the blue car – ‘NOBA’. Which apparently stands for, ‘Not Only But Always’, and old English saying. Nev had a sense of humour as eclectic as his machine collection! I have decided to change its name to, ‘GMC Bearcat’. Why? I hear you ask. While going through Nev’s papers on the car I found a photograph of a 1914 Stutz Bearcat, I guess as his inspiration, so it seemed logical. 

Maurice was hand built by Nev as his tribute to those same aero engine cars that I liked. It's fitted with a GMC 702 cid, (11.5 lt), V12, used in 1960's GMC 7000 series trucks. The gearbox is from a Commer truck and the chassis a Toyota Dyna truck. 

My goal is to get the Bearcat legally registered for road use, this will entail quite a bit of finishing to make it compliant for a Road Worthy Certificate. Plus, there is some maintenance work to be done, a leaking rear axle seal, the brakes don’t work, and a carby (x2) rebuild, oil and filter change.

Joining some car Facebook sites has created a lot of interest with people asking to be kept informed on the progress, so my reason to update my blog to keep people in the loop.

                                     I took this video at the auction before purchasing Maurice.

                                     Now Maurice was safely tucked up in my workshop.

                                                                                                     

General Update

Hi all, well to both of my blog readers, ( my wife and I  ;-) )

It’s been a while since I posted a Humber Update, I’ve been busy with all the other projects,  so thought I’d post about them. I was working on the Humber, (fitting the  1916 T Ford mudguards/fenders), which turned out trickier than I thought. I started by trying to fit the front ones, when it soon became obvious I should have started with the rear guards. To do this I had to mount the running boards to get the correct height, then it became obvious again the rear T Ford guards were not long enough at the front to reach the running boards. It’s a bit like that old kid’s song – ‘There’s a hole in the bucket dear Liza, dear Liza’. So, I had to make panels to fill in the gap between the guard, of course these had to be rolled to the same diameter on the edges the same as the Ford guards, otherwise it would look shit. I did buy a bead roller before I started the Humber project to put beads in the upper parts of the body panels, which I didn’t because it would have been a nightmare to try and do – my skill levels aren’t up to that. Anyway the bead roller was the perfect tool to make the rolled wire edges, BUT! I didn’t have the right rollers. I purchased a set from where I bought the roller itself, unfortunately their set was for a smaller gauge wire edge than what was on the T Ford guards – Bugger !  So I called on my inner Fitter and Turner and made up a new flat roller and widened the gullet roller. Oh, the other thing I did was to adapt a winch motor onto the bead roller so I didn’t have to ask someone to wind the handle for me - my boys either wound it too fast or too slow....

It was about this time that the auto body guy who I had lined up , (two months previous),to cut the rust out of the 1955 Studebaker bailed on me – if you are reading this Richmond, you Sir are an Arsehat, and so is your mate you recommended me to, wanting twice the price and heap of conditions. Then after the third guy messed me around I thought, ‘Hey, I can weld, I can manipulate metal, I’m gonna give it a go’ !!!  So that is another project taking up my time at present.  The third project is the cut-away engine I’m making for the Studebaker shop as a promotion tool. After putting the word out Dick Adsett donated two 1948 Studebaker six cylinder engines, both were in bad shape, but hey I’m going to cut holes in them ;-)  The plan is to take a sectioned engine to car shows on a frame in the tray of my ’47 MR Studebaker pickup, and run them on three cylinders with all the moving parts exposed.  So without further ado, please see the pics below of my time killers.

Flat and wire edge roller.

Rear left hand guard showing gap.

Front LHS guard of '55 Stude

With rust removed

LHS sill with rust cut out

LHS Sill with patch welded in

Cut-away 6 cyl

Head sectioned and in place on Stude 6 cyl.

Humber Speedster Project - Update # 12

It’s been a couple of months since my last update and to be honest I’ve neglected the Humber a bit. I can claim other pressing distractions; shifting the 'Studebaker of Australia' stock from our off site storage shed to the warehouse beside the shop, and my main business required my attention more than usual to sort out some issues. Poor Huber` was shunted down the priority ladder a couple of rungs. It’s now looking clear he won’t be finished for the National Humber Rally next March, which really grates on me but I just won’t put him on display unfinished.

I ended the last update with the photos of the completed trunk and the steel body frame, the next project was to take the dash mock up to the finished article. I carefully drafted the instrument and switch positions, picked out the best grained plywood and marked the hole centres, held my breath and cut. (hole sawed actually). All went smoothly, UNTIL!!!! I did a test fitting to the scuttle frame – I had miss read one of the measurements and cut all of the holes 60 mm (2 1/2’) off centre. Damn and Blast !!! Luckily I had enough ply left over to make another one, and consoled myself the first was just a practice run. ;-)

 

The practice run....

The second try was a success

With the dash finished came the job I had been putting off – sheeting the body. Actually it went pretty well. The bonnet (hood) didn’t go as well, and I’m still working to get the outer edge how I want it. There was a small issue where the scuttle sheeting folded around the firewall. I hadn’t allowed for the firewall being on a three degree lean, therefore causing a gap between the sheet metal and timber. The obvious solution was to cut and weld, but rather than go for the grinder I decided to make the complete bonnet and re-evaluate then. Of course as this project has always two steps forward and half a step back I realised I needed to fit the front mudguards (fenders) before I could get the correct size of the bonnet side panels. I had bought two old sets of 1916 T Model Ford front and rear guards from a swap meet some time ago intending repair and use them, but after having them sand blasted I realised they were too far gone. The new reproduction guards arrived from the USA arrived some three weeks later. I was pretty disappointed in the condition they arrived in, brand new guards with rusty hand and finger marks all over them. This could have easily been avoided at the factory by the workers using gloves or some anti-corrosion film. Poor form Rootlieb Inc, poor form. I cleaned them down with phosphoric acid then undercoated them to stop further corrosion.

Front guards straight out of the box.

Rear guards straight out of the box.

 

Side sheet in place for marking the door cut outs.

Door cut outs done, now in place for fixing.

Folding over the top edge.

Body tub clad, now for the scuttle top and bonnet.

The trickiest job so far - getting the outer edges and curve right.

When I went to fit the guards I couldn’t understand why T Model Ford guards didn’t just bolt straight on a 1932 Humber ;-)  I expected some modifications, but not as much as it took! Oh well, just get on with it – my workshop guillotine and folder got a work out. I had to fold up a 4" (100mm) fill in piece so the bonnet side panels would clear the guards, and the mounting plates.

Filler panels & mounting plates 

 

To get the final position of the guards required the headlight supports to be in place, another interconnected job. (The guards have to have the correct position forward & back, height off the wheel to allow for travel and distance from the body to ensure a balanced look, AND the same height as the rear guards so the running boards are level with the car - another 3D jigsaw with no picture guide ;-). As the original headlights are being used I have to use the original support risers that were bolted to the chassis and crossed braced from each guard. The pre 1920’s look I was going for didn’t lend itself to the cross brace so that will be deleted, the headlights will be supported by a pipe welded to new chassis brackets. (the original support pipes were rusted beyond repair, but luckily were directly replaced with ½” water pipe, even the threads in the original mounts under the headlight buckets were ½” British Standard Pipe thread). One of the old T ford guards I bought had its original bracket so I used that as a template for the new ones, sized up a bit it as it looked quite flimsy. I set about to fabricate the combination Mudguard / head light support with ¾” round bar for the guards and 2” x ¼” angle iron for the chassis mount. (The T Ford brackets were tapered from the chassis mount to the guard end from ¾” to ½” which made the flimsy look). But when I placed the ¾” bar up in place it look way to bulky – no wonder Henry Ford’s design team made them tapered.   ;-)    Once again the Gods of Engineering took pity on me and allow the bar to JUST fit in my lathe so I could turn a taper on it - Now they just have to be bent to follow the contour of the guards then welded in place.

Turning the taper on the mudguard bracket.

The head light and guard brackets, using the original adjusting knuckles.

As it looks today.

Just waiting for the head light install.